Cityscapes

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Sleepless in Seattle

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As the boundaries between work and home are erased (for some), the lines between the days of the week are also getting blurred. In the past years, I'd look forward to traveling as the spring season rolled around into the Pacific Northwest. They'd be the delightful breaks that motivated me to complete work early and plan for my next sojourn. These set the boundaries that defined my year in perspective

But in this new era, that is no longer the case, and as the days roll on, I have to find new mile markers to define my life.

I am blessed that I can continue to work remotely, which is not the case for many in this beautiful city. My heart goes out to those who keep this city (and others) running like a well-oiled machine despite the sever restrictions we face now.

Seattle
WA USA

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Heart of the Isles

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I had never expected a country filled with beautiful scenery, with windswept mountains alternating with blissfulyl green hills, with rugged coastlines interspersed by petite towns, to be also so culturally rich and full of character and passion. It was a study in contrast going from the capital city of Dublin, where tradition and modernity wove a tangled web of commerce and industry, to the pastoral countryside replete with old castles, charming town centers, delightful bed-and-breakfasts, and the ever-ubiquitous Irish pubs with lively folk music.

It wasn't a country that wowed me with grand spectacle the likes of Iceland and Chile, but it was the hidden charm of the little things that I got to discover exploring around. I wish I could return there under better conditions. Meanwhile, here is a sampling from the heart of the isles

Ireland

Resting Places

We hardly think of where we go when we die. And even if we build elaborate structures to allow our mortal remains to decay, we will never get to experience it. And yet, all around the world, humans have built grand mausoleums, cemeteries and burial grounds to allow the dead to pass on to afterlife. Whether it be the mighty Pyramids of Gizeh, elaborately decorated structures of Recoleta and Pere Lachaise, or the grand mausoleums like Taj Mahal, they all strive to glorify their silent inhabitants to an exalted status.

Dating back to the 12th century, the Shah-i-Zinda necropolis in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, belongs to this exclusive club of grand final resting places. Walking through metropolis replete with mausoleums and ritual buildings was a walk back in time. I made my way through sunlit passageways lined by pain-stakingly-restored blue shrines with exquisite architecture, admiring the intricate decorations and opulent tombstones.

I hope I get to see similar treasures around the world.

Shah-i-Zinda
Samarkand Uzbekistan

A Vessel of Art

The concrete jungle of Manhattan seems a world away from the lush rainforests of the Pacific Northwest to the concrete jungle of Manhattan was a sea of change. Towering mountainscapes with volcanic peaks and snow-capped summits were replaced by steel and glass skylines, mist-shrouded trees by towering concrete edifices lining narrow avenues and boulevards, and the peace and solace one can find along the tiny creeks and placid lakes by the chaos of an urban life teeming with the vibrancy of human energy.

And yet, there is beauty to appreciate here too, in the graceful spires of the Oculus or in the staircases to nowhere in the Vessel. I arrived here just in time for sunset, but couldn't stay long enough to capture twilight setting over the city that never sleeps.

New York City
NY

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Bustling Istanbul

It took a while to soak it all in.

A brightly lit restaurant thoroughfare below an arterial bridge was bustling with a dinner crowd savoring on freshly-caught seafood. Restauranteurs and shop owners shouted their wares loudly, hoping to make a few last minute sales on that thoroughfare, while hundreds of fishing lines dangled from above, hoping to strike luck in the crowded waters of the Golden Horn in the heart of Istanbul.

It was the eve of Eid, the last day of fasting of the Holy month of Ramadan observed in the Islamic world. As is tradition during this month, the locals are out everywhere at sundown, feasting on local specialities to break the fast. The mosques all around had a festive atmosphere celebrating the Holy month. The promenade facing the waterfront was buzzing like a beehive, a veritable smorgasbord of restaurants, sweet shops, shopping malls, boat docks and travel agencies catering to locals and tourists alike. It took a while to absorb it all in, but I knew I had to hurry to capture the blue hour on the eve of Eid.

Istanbul

Turkey

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Old World Germany

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Historic town centers, spellbinding castles, placid countryside and a rich cultural heritage were the upsides of visiting a country not particularly known as a tourist destination or as a foodie haven. One of the most underrated tourist destinations proved to be one of my most memorable trips.

Germany (Various)

Throwback to the Past

Two years ago, to the day, I was wrapping up the last few days on a guided tour through the island of Honshu in Japan. I am not normally a fan of guided tours that feel like a roller coaster ride, especially in a country like Japan where you can barely peel the surface of the complex subcultures of this diverse country. Between language barriers, the lack of any planning effort, or large mob mentality, I could never grasp the history and origins of a particular culture or place and thereby immerse myself as I normally try to do. It may not have been the right way to travel in Japan, but considering it was also one last goodbye to many friends whom I have known dearly for two years, it was worth the tradeoff.

Despite these barriers, I still felt a sensory overload: visual, aural, and oral. There was just so much happening on this whirlwind of a trip through different places, and the smells, the sights, and the sounds have taken quite a bit of time for my brain to process. My camera managed to preserve certain moments of time while the journal managed to capture some of the memories and emotions I felt as I traveled through very diverse locales and cities. And yet, I feel that I have barely scratched the surface of the experiences I have had.

Tokyo

Japan

Fragility

It is a tragedy that has befallen this mighty building.

The Notre Dame captured my heart the very moment I saw pictures of it while looking at the Paris guidebooks. And when I visited this impressive piece of history 10 years ago, I couldn't contain my excitement.

Even from afar, the Notre Dame Cathedral is an imposing structure: two tall towers rising 70m above the mass of low-rise buildings that dominate the center of Paris, behind which the lie the cross of the 73m long nave and 46m wide transept, each rising 4 stories, and supported by the massive bulwarks of the flying buttresses. Even the spindly spire that collapsed was large from up-close.

It took 100 years to build, and it stood through 800 years of tumultuous history, through both the World Wars. And yet, even such a mighty structure can be fragile. I do hope they rebuild it to its former glory.

Paris

France

A Blue Oasis

I stepped away from the main thoroughfare of Chefchaouen, a long wide alley lined with shops selling tourist curios and colorful spices that wound its way through the dense hillside town. The alleys were crowded with early spring tourists and residents going about their daily routines, and I wanted to explore the more remote parts of this village. The blues continued on however, a never-ending fabric of paint that coated the city.

Chefchaouen was this magical oasis of blue in the brown dusty hill-slopes in north-eastern Morocco. The medina had gained its blue hues in the late 15th century as it received its first influx of Jewish migrants, and it stuck to this ever since. And the blues doesn't feel overwhelming, as the subtleties in the different shades of blue ensure that one alley looks different from the other. One would be hard-pressed to escape from the blue until you step out of the medina, but there are spots where the underlying brown bricks become visible, as it was in this narrow residential alleyway, complete with a tall ladder also painted blue.

Chefchaouen

Morocco

The Gold Tomb

Not many of us are honored enough to enjoy an afterlife in a gold tombstone. But if you were Amir Timur, the Turco-Mongol conqueror and the founder of the Timurid empire of Persia and Central Asia in the 14th century, you are definitely worthy of that honor. This beautiful mausoleum in Samarkhand, the capital of the emperor's empure, is a precursor to the great tombs of the Mughal era, including the famous Taj Mahal in India.

Walking inside, what struck me were the ornate decorations, the colorful mosaics, gold filigree and the beautiful inlaid tiles reflecting the rich hues the empire brought together in its vast and storied history. It must have certainly been a wonder in the era it was built. And even though it fell to disrepair during the 17th and 18th century, it has been dutifully restored during the Soviet era, almost back to its original glory.

This tomb, while being overshadowed by the even more famous attractions in Samarkhand, is one of the many reasons to visit this city steeped in history.

Samarkhand

Uzbekistan