Resting Places

We hardly think of where we go when we die. And even if we build elaborate structures to allow our mortal remains to decay, we will never get to experience it. And yet, all around the world, humans have built grand mausoleums, cemeteries and burial grounds to allow the dead to pass on to afterlife. Whether it be the mighty Pyramids of Gizeh, elaborately decorated structures of Recoleta and Pere Lachaise, or the grand mausoleums like Taj Mahal, they all strive to glorify their silent inhabitants to an exalted status.

Dating back to the 12th century, the Shah-i-Zinda necropolis in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, belongs to this exclusive club of grand final resting places. Walking through metropolis replete with mausoleums and ritual buildings was a walk back in time. I made my way through sunlit passageways lined by pain-stakingly-restored blue shrines with exquisite architecture, admiring the intricate decorations and opulent tombstones.

I hope I get to see similar treasures around the world.

Shah-i-Zinda
Samarkand Uzbekistan

Lighting the madrasah

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Registan: one of the most beautifully restored triad of madrasahs: an imposing darwazah (door) lined with intricate tilework, beautiful wall paintings, swirling pillars and gracefully arched doorways. And while the structures look spartan under the mid-day heat, the well-executed lighting adds a unique shine to these imposing structures.

Walking under the eaves of these tall monuments is walking over centuries of history, the oldest one more than 6 centuries old, and breathing the very same air of piety that has permeated this region for millenia.

I for one, am glad to have visited and experienced this amazing wonder of the world.

Samarkand

Uzbekistan

Evening Market

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Walking around a sleepy old bazaar in the heart of Samarkand transported me back to an era when this beautiful city developed at the crossroads of the trade routes that formed the Great Silk Road. Spanning from the mystic Orient to the mighty Persian empire, this network of trade routes was responsible for spreading everything from flavorful spices to algebra all over the Eurasian continent.

It is a city with layers of history hiding in plain sight, a Central Asian city worth the visit.

Samarkand

Uzbekistan

Portal into a new culture

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As soon as I entered the mausoleum, I was taken aback from the sheer beauty of this place: over a dozen exquisitely designed structures stood shoulder to shoulder along either side of the corridor, each uniquely designed to respect the remains of those buried inside. There were some with harmonious decorations and intricate terracotta tilework adorning the façade highlighting great attention to detail, while others had unique geometric patterns zig-zagging around the doorway, and a few more had their inside domes painted in the serene pastel blue hues.

This was the beautiful necropolis called Shah-i-Zinda in the heart of the Silk Route in Samarkhand, Uzbekistan. I had timed my visit late in the afternoon where the long shadows from the slanted light light made for some unique compositions through the arched doorways along the corridor; I was getting so addicted to the beauty of this place that I had to pry myself out of this very photogenic necropolis.

Here is one of those mausoleums with a series of beautifully decorated arched doorways.

Samarkhand
Uzbekistan

Courting the Registan

I turned around the corner on a hot and dusty day in the city of Samarkhand in Uzbekistan. And the ensemble of madrasas came into view, carrying the impressive name Registan, meaning the "Sandy Place". And I had to pause a moment, nay many, to admire the scene that unfolded in front of me.

As I was working my way from West to East along the Silk Route, the historical monuments I had visited became more impressive with each new one. It, however, truly culminated in the Registan, the heart of the ancient city of Samarkand of the Timurid dynasty, which dated back to the 14th-16th century. The trifecta of three madrasas, the Ulugh Bek Madrasah, the Tilya Kori Madrasa, and the Sher-Dor Madrasa, suffered heavily from a lack of maintenance over the last few centuries, and it was the heavy-handed Soviet-era restoration that brought these beautiful edifices back to their former glories.

I returned back to the Registan during a summer evening, and I was surprised to see rare cloud formations take over the sky. As the sun slowly set and lent a bit of color to the sky, the lights of the Registan turned on, and provided it with its nightly attire. It was this that I had hoped to capture. And even with a wide field of view of the 16mm lens, the grand scene in front of me was hard to capture completely.

This image is a 3-image HDR composite shot at 17mm and F11 at ISO 100

Registan
Samarkand Uzbekistan