mausoleum

Resting Places

We hardly think of where we go when we die. And even if we build elaborate structures to allow our mortal remains to decay, we will never get to experience it. And yet, all around the world, humans have built grand mausoleums, cemeteries and burial grounds to allow the dead to pass on to afterlife. Whether it be the mighty Pyramids of Gizeh, elaborately decorated structures of Recoleta and Pere Lachaise, or the grand mausoleums like Taj Mahal, they all strive to glorify their silent inhabitants to an exalted status.

Dating back to the 12th century, the Shah-i-Zinda necropolis in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, belongs to this exclusive club of grand final resting places. Walking through metropolis replete with mausoleums and ritual buildings was a walk back in time. I made my way through sunlit passageways lined by pain-stakingly-restored blue shrines with exquisite architecture, admiring the intricate decorations and opulent tombstones.

I hope I get to see similar treasures around the world.

Shah-i-Zinda
Samarkand Uzbekistan

The Gold Tomb

Not many of us are honored enough to enjoy an afterlife in a gold tombstone. But if you were Amir Timur, the Turco-Mongol conqueror and the founder of the Timurid empire of Persia and Central Asia in the 14th century, you are definitely worthy of that honor. This beautiful mausoleum in Samarkhand, the capital of the emperor's empure, is a precursor to the great tombs of the Mughal era, including the famous Taj Mahal in India.

Walking inside, what struck me were the ornate decorations, the colorful mosaics, gold filigree and the beautiful inlaid tiles reflecting the rich hues the empire brought together in its vast and storied history. It must have certainly been a wonder in the era it was built. And even though it fell to disrepair during the 17th and 18th century, it has been dutifully restored during the Soviet era, almost back to its original glory.

This tomb, while being overshadowed by the even more famous attractions in Samarkhand, is one of the many reasons to visit this city steeped in history.

Samarkhand

Uzbekistan

Lighting the madrasah

Registan: one of the most beautifully restored triad of madrasahs: an imposing darwazah (door) lined with intricate tilework, beautiful wall paintings, swirling pillars and gracefully arched doorways. And while the structures look spartan under the mid-day heat, the well-executed lighting adds a unique shine to these imposing structures.

Walking under the eaves of these tall monuments is walking over centuries of history, the oldest one more than 6 centuries old, and breathing the very same air of piety that has permeated this region for millenia.

I for one, am glad to have visited and experienced this amazing wonder of the world.

Samarkand

Uzbekistan

Portal into a new culture

As soon as I entered the mausoleum, I was taken aback from the sheer beauty of this place: over a dozen exquisitely designed structures stood shoulder to shoulder along either side of the corridor, each uniquely designed to respect the remains of those buried inside. There were some with harmonious decorations and intricate terracotta tilework adorning the façade highlighting great attention to detail, while others had unique geometric patterns zig-zagging around the doorway, and a few more had their inside domes painted in the serene pastel blue hues.

This was the beautiful necropolis called Shah-i-Zinda in the heart of the Silk Route in Samarkhand, Uzbekistan. I had timed my visit late in the afternoon where the long shadows from the slanted light light made for some unique compositions through the arched doorways along the corridor; I was getting so addicted to the beauty of this place that I had to pry myself out of this very photogenic necropolis.

Here is one of those mausoleums with a series of beautifully decorated arched doorways.

Samarkhand
Uzbekistan

 

The Final Resting Place

It was late afternoon, and I found myself wandering through a leafy green park, with landscaped gardens intersected by wide avenues, and with refreshing fountains to cool down the summer air. In-between all this stood a dusty nondescript tomb with n…

It was late afternoon, and I found myself wandering through a leafy green park, with landscaped gardens intersected by wide avenues, and with refreshing fountains to cool down the summer air. In-between all this stood a dusty nondescript tomb with no adornments or colorless. And after having spent the entire day gazing at monumental mosques and madrasas that had been beautifully restored to their former glories, this tiny tomb felt bare. And only the intricate patterns on the walls belied what was inside.

For what I was staring at was the 9th century Samanid Mausoleum, one of the most highly esteemed work of Central Asian Islamic architecture, having constructed even before Genghis Khan had ravaged this place. Since Sunni Islam prohibited construction of mausoleums, the fact that this one was constructed stresses the prominence of Ismail Samani, the ruler of the Samanid dynasty in that era.

As I entered inside, the warm afternoon sunlight streaming through the brickwork window formed a beautiful checkered pattern on the floor, and that lent a yellow ambience that highlighted the intricate geometric patterns that festooned the walls, archways, and the domed ceiling. In one corner stood the rather unremarkable tomb dedicated to the great ruler Ismail Samani.

I tried to capture the aura of magnificence, but the camera can only go so far. This was shot at F11 at ISO-800 at 1/8s

Bukhara
Uzbekistan