silk road

Home is where you are

The concept of a domicile and a permanent abode is a strong fixture for the modern community. It anchors our present-day lives, and with the pandemic moving most work to home, the importance of the place of residence is higher than ever before.

That led me to wonder about the nomadic lives that many communities around the world practice, including the famous Bedouin tribes of Middle East, the Mongol tribes in Mongolia, Saami tribes in Scandinavia and numerous more in Africa and South America. And then there are also the digital nomads who work and live on the move, relying on modern technology to keep connected to society.

The nomadic herders I stayed with in Kyrgyzstan are certainly not digital nomads. Their calendar revolves with the seasons of the year, bring their herds of cattle and horses up to the high altitude meadows (jailoos) in early summer. They move and stay with the herd for half the year, in white yurts that pop up on the green landscape, and only move back down when winter calls and the weather turns harsh. A few of these herders set up additional yurts and welcome tourists to spend a day and experience the nomadic life of these herders. Modern technology has certainly eased some of the challenges and brought more income, but has not changed their lifestyle. I hope this tradition continues to thrive.

Tash Rabat Caravanserai

At Bashy district, Kyrgyzstan

Resting Places

We hardly think of where we go when we die. And even if we build elaborate structures to allow our mortal remains to decay, we will never get to experience it. And yet, all around the world, humans have built grand mausoleums, cemeteries and burial grounds to allow the dead to pass on to afterlife. Whether it be the mighty Pyramids of Gizeh, elaborately decorated structures of Recoleta and Pere Lachaise, or the grand mausoleums like Taj Mahal, they all strive to glorify their silent inhabitants to an exalted status.

Dating back to the 12th century, the Shah-i-Zinda necropolis in Samarkand, Uzbekistan, belongs to this exclusive club of grand final resting places. Walking through metropolis replete with mausoleums and ritual buildings was a walk back in time. I made my way through sunlit passageways lined by pain-stakingly-restored blue shrines with exquisite architecture, admiring the intricate decorations and opulent tombstones.

I hope I get to see similar treasures around the world.

Shah-i-Zinda
Samarkand Uzbekistan

The Gold Tomb

Not many of us are honored enough to enjoy an afterlife in a gold tombstone. But if you were Amir Timur, the Turco-Mongol conqueror and the founder of the Timurid empire of Persia and Central Asia in the 14th century, you are definitely worthy of that honor. This beautiful mausoleum in Samarkhand, the capital of the emperor's empure, is a precursor to the great tombs of the Mughal era, including the famous Taj Mahal in India.

Walking inside, what struck me were the ornate decorations, the colorful mosaics, gold filigree and the beautiful inlaid tiles reflecting the rich hues the empire brought together in its vast and storied history. It must have certainly been a wonder in the era it was built. And even though it fell to disrepair during the 17th and 18th century, it has been dutifully restored during the Soviet era, almost back to its original glory.

This tomb, while being overshadowed by the even more famous attractions in Samarkhand, is one of the many reasons to visit this city steeped in history.

Samarkhand

Uzbekistan

Lighting the madrasah

Registan: one of the most beautifully restored triad of madrasahs: an imposing darwazah (door) lined with intricate tilework, beautiful wall paintings, swirling pillars and gracefully arched doorways. And while the structures look spartan under the mid-day heat, the well-executed lighting adds a unique shine to these imposing structures.

Walking under the eaves of these tall monuments is walking over centuries of history, the oldest one more than 6 centuries old, and breathing the very same air of piety that has permeated this region for millenia.

I for one, am glad to have visited and experienced this amazing wonder of the world.

Samarkand

Uzbekistan