The Kyrgyz Outlands
The vast outlands of Kyrgyztan look like no man's land, where vast summer meadows stretch to the horizon, demarcated by rugged snow-capped peaks in every direction. This tiny landlocked country at the confluence of 158 mountain ranges, has many such vast high altitude regions that ought to be devoid of human
life, and yet it thrives here. Every few miles on the freshly paved tarmac, one can encounter a tiny nomadic village in the summer, replete with a few yurts, dozens of heads of cattle, the free-spirited Kyrgyz horses, and a beaten up pickup or two.
These nomadic herders move with the season, leading their cattle to their favored grazing grounds across the vast hinterlands of this Central Asian nation, seemingly oblivious of the natural beauty of this timeless landscape and slice of humanity that the photographer in my finds endearing. It is this juxtaposition of the fragile human life against the harshness of the outlands that draws me to come back again to this beautiful country.
Chatyr Kol
Naryn Province, Kyrgyzstan
Portals
The darvaza, or a doorway, signifies many things in many cultures, ranging from the metaphysical separation of the death from life, to the more mundane indoors from the outdoors. As a photographer, perhaps the appeal lies in its ability to frame the organic shapes and colors of the outdoor with a well-defined man-made structure.
I collated three such doorways from different parts of the world: the doorway of an outer portico for the Taj Mahal-inspired Bibi ka Maqbara in India, an arched window in the kasbah in Chefchaouen in Morocco, and the stone-hewed entrance of an old caravanserai on the Silk Road in Kyrgyzstan. Each are different, and yet, they share the intrinsic property that is common for a darvaza.
Home is where you are
The concept of a domicile and a permanent abode is a strong fixture for the modern community. It anchors our present-day lives, and with the pandemic moving most work to home, the importance of the place of residence is higher than ever before.
That led me to wonder about the nomadic lives that many communities around the world practice, including the famous Bedouin tribes of Middle East, the Mongol tribes in Mongolia, Saami tribes in Scandinavia and numerous more in Africa and South America. And then there are also the digital nomads who work and live on the move, relying on modern technology to keep connected to society.
The nomadic herders I stayed with in Kyrgyzstan are certainly not digital nomads. Their calendar revolves with the seasons of the year, bring their herds of cattle and horses up to the high altitude meadows (jailoos) in early summer. They move and stay with the herd for half the year, in white yurts that pop up on the green landscape, and only move back down when winter calls and the weather turns harsh. A few of these herders set up additional yurts and welcome tourists to spend a day and experience the nomadic life of these herders. Modern technology has certainly eased some of the challenges and brought more income, but has not changed their lifestyle. I hope this tradition continues to thrive.
Tash Rabat Caravanserai
At Bashy district, Kyrgyzstan
From Earth to Sky
The recent news of the turmoil in Kyrgyztan, a land-locked country in the heart of Central Asia, nestled in by the towering Tien Shan mountains, was heartbreaking. Protests and riots have erupted around the ongoing political unrest regarding the elections. This crisis, coupled with the economic impacts from the pandemic, has proved to be devastating for this nation.
It feels like a different era compared to the time I visited the beautiful countryside inhabited by nomadic herders and sparsely populated towns and villages. I still remember standing in awe admiring the snow-capped peaks of the Tien Shan range reaching for the azure skies.
I do hope that, for the sake of the amazing people I met in Kyrgyzstan, that things return to normalcy.
Arslanbob
Kyrgyzstan
To the Mountains
Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity - John Muir
Two years ago, to the day, I found myself staring at the end of a long dirt road weaving by a gushing creek of ice-cold melt-water. Silver-capped mountains gleamed in the distance. My destination for that night was somewhere there, deep amidst the towering peaks in a beautiful valley pine forests, vast open meadows and lush green hills.
That excitement and giddiness of hauling all my clothing and gear up into the mountains apart, it made me wonder why I made the decision of heading to this mountainous heartland of Central Asia. I already knew the answer: I love being amidst the mountains. And that was why I was relocating back to the west coast after that trip, where mountains are not just a dot on a landscape, but a region with innumerable nooks and crannies waiting to be explored and photographed.
I could not think of a better place to enjoy my last few days in this amazing country, for in going to the mountains, I was going home.
Altyn Arashan
Kyrgyzstan
It's a wonderful world
I love the mountains
I love the clear blue skies
I love the landscapes
I love when great whites fly
I love the whole world
And all its sights and sounds
…
Boom de yada, boom de yada
Boom de yada, boom de yada
…
Its a wonderful world out there, full of new surprises around every corner, and full of new adventures every day. And unless you go seek those adventures, you never get to experience the magic the world has to offer!
Songkol
Naryn Kyrgyzstan
Dawn on the Jailoo
I stepped out from the warmth of the dark yurt to a freezing cold outside. In the gentle pre-dawn light, I spotted the beautiful rolling hills covered with a thin crust of overnight snow. A cold fog was flowing down from the heavens along the smooth contours of the surrounding hillscape. High above, the sky was aglow with a bright pink, while down below, horses and cattle gently grazed on the fresh summer grass.
This is life on the jailoo, a harsh, silent and beautiful landscape in the heart of the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan.
Songkol
Kyrgyzstan
True Love
The red I seek is not of a rose, but the red alpenglow of a snow-capped peak.
The rose I see is not of a Rosé, but of the pink hues reflecting in a gurgling mountain creek.
The green I seek is not of a lovely salad, but of the vibrant green alpine meadow
The love I seek is not of humankind, but of the great wild outdoors, of towering mountaintops, of glistening lakes, of dramatic glaciers, of lush forests, of unspoilt nature.
This is the love I seek every day, not just during heart day
What's your true love?
Altyn Arashan
Karakol Kyrgyzstan
Horses of Kyrgyzstan
High in the Tienshan lies several beautiful grassy meadows that serve as the summer pastures for the majestic Kyrgyz horses. Life in this terrain yields one of the most hardiest breed of horses, walking on treacherous terrain with an unparalleled ease. But the one thing they lack in this high terrain is salt.
While in Arslanbob, I hitched a ride with a local herder who maintained his stock in the high alpine meadows. Crammed into SUV with 8 other folks wasn't a pleasant experience, but I was grateful for his hospitality as it saved a precious few hours of hiking. Upon reaching his pastures, the herder opened up bags of salt and spread it around. And all it took was a whistle to attract a few dozen horses galloping in from all over the valley to eat salt. To see the majestic equine beasts thundering about the thin mountain air was like nothing else.
Arslanbob
Jalal-abad Region, Kyrgyzstan