travel

Winter is coming

Plunging temperatures and low sunlight heralds the arrival of winter in Iceland. And it arrives early this far north, with cold, windy and dry conditions taking over from the blissful and wet summer.

Signs of these changes were everywhere. Waterfalls had an aura of winter all around, puddles and streams on trails became icy, while lakes in the highlands had already started freezing. These conditions make outdoor adventures in Iceland challenging, but offers unique conditions and compositions. This is one of the multitude of falls showcasing its winter sheen.

Kvernufoss
Iceland

Bruarfoss

It didn't look like much on the map. And even the short walk from the parking lot didn't inspire confidence. But once I got to the wooden bridge straddling the river downstream of the falls, I was taken aback. It wasn't the typical Icelandic waterfall, featuring a tall column of water descending from the lip of hard basalt that you see everywhere. Instead, it was a diffuse waterfall, spreading along a long ledge over which a multitude of streams pour over. Perhaps what was most fascinating was the tiny canyon barely 3m tall and a meter wide that cut its way into the face of the waterfall.

I spent an hour admiring every single detail of the waterfall, from the columnar basalt in the foreground, the faded clumps of orange grass that contrasted with the deep blue water, and the roaring sound of the gushing river.

Bruarfoss
Iceland

Rays of Shadow

Watching the sun rise from the summit of a volcano was an tranquil affair, interrupted only by the tumultuous shockwave from a nearby eruption thundering through the air. As the light from the eastern horizon slowly gained intensity, features and undulations slowly became more visible in the haze. Roads and farms formed intricate patterns in the valley that only started to come into light.

As the deep reds slowly turned orange and yellow in the east, the western horizon was still dark under the shadow of earth itself. The moon was the only anchor point steady in the sky as the Belt of Venus slowly arose. What I had not expected to see was the shadow of the volcano itself projected onto a neat triangular point into the west. Surprisingly, this shadow, and the accompany rays of darkness only became visible after the sun rose. I admired the distance to which this shadow was projected, and how long it actually lasted.

This image portrays the summit of the volcano at sunrise.

Volcan Acatenango
Guatemala

Hazy Horizons

The hazy sunrise slowly transformed the landscape down below me. Caverns and canyons in the shadows became brighter, while the long shadows over farmsteads and tractors became shorter. We floated above this dreamy landscape, blissfully unaware of the civilization down below waking up and doing their morning chores. Instead, we focused on the beautiful patterns etched by the landscape becoming more sharp with the rising sun.

Such was the magic of floating into the sunrise in Cappadocia, where the dreams down below and reality up above merge at the hazy horizon.

Cappadocia
Turkey

Gentle Giants

I recently watched 'The Last Tourist', which tries to encapsulate the economic, environmental and socio-cultural cost of tourism on a region. While I was aware of some these impact, this movie served as an eye-opening experience. I was especially taken aback by the toll of wildlife tourism in Thailand, as it rekindled some of my own memories of animal experiences in the night markets of Chiang Mai. I remember seeing sad looking tiger cubs being used as show-pieces, leashed monkeys used for performing tricks, and several other endangered animals treated with wanton cruelty.

But it was learning about inhumane treatment of elephants in the various 'nature' parks showcased in the movie that brought me to tears. These intelligent gentle giants were chained up with very little ability to move, or being prodded with sharp metal rods to perform tricks. This 'tourism' experience certainly did not earn any sympathy from me. While I was glad I didn't venture on such an experience, I would have rather not traveled to such a destination that supports such inhumane experiences.

This specific elephant was living its retirement years at the Elephant Nature Park, one of the parks that cares for rehabilitating and improving the lives of elephants.

Thailand

Nestled in Nature

With a density of 181 / sq. km, Western Europe is quite densely populated (twice as high as California, and comparable to NY state). And yet, it is quite easy to find and meld into nature. Compact villages with a small footprint nestled in the countryside offered a more harmonious experience than the sprawling suburbs I was quite used to. And exploring the countryside on the narrow mountain roads made for a delightful few days.

Schwarzwald
Baden-Württemberg Germany

And vibrant cities

There is something unique about the urban life in many of the Western European cities. The activity and urban life I witnessed during my few brief jaunts to different cities left me longing for such a similar hub of activity. And I wondered what it was that created that feeling.

I realized that it really centered around exploring the old-towns in the country, replete with timber-frame housing dating back centuries, listening alternately to the harsh clanging of church bells and the melodious sounds of the choir, the vibrant street-music and colorful shops, and sipping on refreshing tipples in biergartens and wineries.

While not every place I visited had the entire gamut of experiences, most did. And Colmar, pictured here, came pretty close. And I was often torn between being a photographer documenting the scene, and enjoying the moment.

Colmar
Alsace, France

Of Distant Lands

The very first time I had seen photos of the Köln cathedral and the Hohenzollern bridge, I knew that I would want to see it in person. It took me a long time to get there, but the vision of the scene kept me focused.

This is true not only of photography, but other aspects of life as well. As long as the vision is concrete, and the path is clear, the objective can be achieved. The one thing to keep in mind is one has to enjoy the journey, or process, of getting there.

I truly enjoyed the contrast in culture and scenery I had experienced in my journey through Germany. For my young mind, it truly felt like I was in a land very distant from home.

Köln
North Rhine - Westphalia, Germany

Turkish Delights

The cavernous ceilings of Istanbul's mosques covered spartan interiors, the only embellishments being Arabic script with beautiful gold embellishments and floral patterns that stretched from floor to ceiling. The naturally ventilated mosques provided a welcome respite from the hot sun of mid-summer outside. In contrast, the Royal Palace was an exercise in lack of self-restraint, showcasing an over-indulgence of embellishments and decorations that yet were tastefully done.

It was a reminder that opulence of the gilded age in European castles continued to be a major influence in the styling of the Royal Palace. And of the strong contrast from the confluence of western designs and eastern culture. Istanbul is one of the few places that one can experience this amalgam in a single day.

Istanbul
Turkey

Above Atitlan

When I first heard the name Lake Atitlan, it conjured up a a god from Mayan mythology, an overseer who overlooked a pristine lake in a caldera of a volcanic nation. It turned out to be partially true, as it was the name given to one of the many volcanoes that ring this glistening lake in the mountainous center of the country.

My first glimpse of the lake was during a multi-day trek that terminated on an overlook of this lake. We arrived at this viewpoint at before dawn, in the calm stillness of the night. The jeweled lights of the villages dotting the lake mirrored the star-spangled banner that was the sky. Venus shone brightly above the eastern horizon anchoring the sky, while the blazoned gold of Fuego's eruption did so for the volcanic horizon. And below it, the dark glassy blue of the lake stretched into the distance, interrupted only by the shimmering reflections of the city lights.

It was freezing at the viewpoint in the early morning, and I was only warmed by hot cocoa slipping down my throat. And despite the lake of sleep, my mind was fully engaged in taking this expansive view of Lake Atitlan.

Lake Atitlan
Guatemala