central america

Rays of Shadow

Watching the sun rise from the summit of a volcano was an tranquil affair, interrupted only by the tumultuous shockwave from a nearby eruption thundering through the air. As the light from the eastern horizon slowly gained intensity, features and undulations slowly became more visible in the haze. Roads and farms formed intricate patterns in the valley that only started to come into light.

As the deep reds slowly turned orange and yellow in the east, the western horizon was still dark under the shadow of earth itself. The moon was the only anchor point steady in the sky as the Belt of Venus slowly arose. What I had not expected to see was the shadow of the volcano itself projected onto a neat triangular point into the west. Surprisingly, this shadow, and the accompany rays of darkness only became visible after the sun rose. I admired the distance to which this shadow was projected, and how long it actually lasted.

This image portrays the summit of the volcano at sunrise.

Volcan Acatenango
Guatemala

Guatemala for the Adventure Seeker

From standing close enough to erupting volcanoes where you can feel the earth shudder with every eruption, to being high in the mountains above a cloudforest, I found so many choices for adventure travel in Guatemala. And complementing the travel options was the variety of food options to satisfy every gourmand's palate.

This was truly a destination that rewards the curious explorer.

Guatemala

Above Atitlan

When I first heard the name Lake Atitlan, it conjured up a a god from Mayan mythology, an overseer who overlooked a pristine lake in a caldera of a volcanic nation. It turned out to be partially true, as it was the name given to one of the many volcanoes that ring this glistening lake in the mountainous center of the country.

My first glimpse of the lake was during a multi-day trek that terminated on an overlook of this lake. We arrived at this viewpoint at before dawn, in the calm stillness of the night. The jeweled lights of the villages dotting the lake mirrored the star-spangled banner that was the sky. Venus shone brightly above the eastern horizon anchoring the sky, while the blazoned gold of Fuego's eruption did so for the volcanic horizon. And below it, the dark glassy blue of the lake stretched into the distance, interrupted only by the shimmering reflections of the city lights.

It was freezing at the viewpoint in the early morning, and I was only warmed by hot cocoa slipping down my throat. And despite the lake of sleep, my mind was fully engaged in taking this expansive view of Lake Atitlan.

Lake Atitlan
Guatemala

Boom

It was a loud boom. The shockwave from the blast shook everyone up. Through the windows of the shack, we could see the summit of Fuego bathed in orange. It was a cone of glowing gold against a inky blackness of the night sky. Rocks were still exploding upwards, taking long arcs in the sky before the long hand of gravity pulled them back. An ominous cloud of smoke emanating from the summit was barely visible against the night sky, illuminated only by the glow of lava and embers.

The volcano erupted every 20 mins like clockwork. First arcs of lava shot up in the sky, followed by a loud boom, followed by even more eruption, and followed by fine ash landing everywhere. However, timing the capture while keeping the lens clean from ash and condensate proved to be a chore. This was one of those captures.

Acatenango
Antigua Guatemala

High Above Nicaragua

The volcano was mired in clouds and fog as we were climbing up during the wee hours of dawn. Not that we could have enjoyed the views - the steep sprint up slushy terrain, rocky scree, and thick vegetation had left us pretty exhausted. And the possibility of not having any views from the top of the Concepcion volcano in Nicaragua had dampened our spirits as well.

Then, just we were about to descend, the skies opened up. Lake Nicaragua, the largest inland water body in the country, stretched before us, with the mainland visible far in the distance. Puffy white clouds were floating lazily above the lake and the distant landmass. And it was only now did we appreciate the steep ascent we had made, and the steep descent that we were about to face.

Volcan Concepcion

Rivas, Nicaragua

Last Rays

“Hark, now hear the sailors cry,
Smell the sea, and feel the sky,
Let your soul & spirit fly, into the mystic."

A wave swooshed over the rock in front of me, erasing the thousands of footsteps that ambled along that warm sandy beach along the Pacific shoreline of Las Penitas in Nicaragua. The last rays of the sun cast a deep orange glow in the sky, signally the end to a wonderful week of traveling around the beautiful country.

When I look back at this photo, I can still hear the sound of crashing water from every wave, and the sweet smell of salty air with every breeze.

Las Penitas
Nicaragua

Cratered Lake

"Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing your lawn..."

Looking back, I am glad my curiosity for what's around the corner peaked at the right time: when I had both the income to travel and when my passion for photography grew. The travel has given me a rich treasure trove of memories and experiences that, accumulated over time, I value more than income I have earned.

Waking up that early morning a few years ago on that tiny village perched over the lip of Laguna Quilotoa proved to be a fortunate choice: I was able to witness a truly amazing spectacle in Ecuador: a glistening blue lake amidst the rugged Andean terrain forming the volcanic spine of the country. This, along with the day-long hike around the lake, is one such experience I will never forget.

Laguna Quilotoa

Cotopaxi Province, Ecuador

Splash of Color

It was mesmerizing to watch the waves barrage endlessly onto the rocks. The rush of water loudly marching towards the rocky outcrop, followed by the thunderous roar of the crash, an explosive burst through the fissures, followed by the salty spray, all in one beautiful poetic motion accompanied by the orchestra of water.

While the golden sands of this peaceful beach in Las Penitas in Nicaragua may seem inviting, the country is going through a period of rough political unrest, with no end in sight. What was once one of the safest Latin American countries to travel to is anything but. Here is to hoping that the situation changes for the better, for the people of Nicaragua, and for the travelers of the world. Meanwhile, the graceful act of the water, wind and gravity working together on this lazy evening in Nicaragua will continue on.

Las Penitas
Nicaragua

Into the Maw

From the distance, it was just like any other non-descript volcano in Nicaragua, a conical mound of dark ash with scarred slopes rising up from the undulating landscape. The smooth paved highway winding up to the top, however, was a dead giveaway that this was special.

Not often does one get to peer into the maw of the earth, through a gaping crater were the inner flames of the core find a  way up to the surface. Volcan Masaya is one such place. Looking down the rocky cliff a mere 100ft below was the active crater, belching sulphurous gases that glowed with the deep orange characteristic of the mantle.

Witnessing the lava flow inside the caldera was one thing, but enjoying the wild atmosphere outside was something else. The quick turnaround at the summit, the constant stream of tourists, the toxic gases, the blood-red sun in the evening sky all became part of the experience of witnessing this active crater.

And while the current conditions on the ground may be unstable, this volcano will continue to belch and smoke until its next cataclysmic eruption.

Volcan Masaya
Nicaragua

The Cap on Concepcion

It was a long and weary day. Just 12 hours prior, I was scrambling on all fours up the slippery steep scree of the Concepcion Volcano, wondering if I could even make it down alive. But I did. And stayed up awake long enough to capture the night as it came alive under moonlight and starlight.

Even as my eyes were refusing to stay open after the tiring hike, I pursued with the objective of capturing the night sky. The cool breeze and the clear skies were encouraging, and the rise of the waning moon turned the night sky into day. Perhaps what captivated me most was the sombrero that formed atop the volcano, adding a unique dimension to the scene.

It certainly was a test of perseverence, doing hard work after getting tired of doing the hard work I already did. But it was worth it.

Ometepe
Nicaragua