Winter is coming

Plunging temperatures and low sunlight heralds the arrival of winter in Iceland. And it arrives early this far north, with cold, windy and dry conditions taking over from the blissful and wet summer.

Signs of these changes were everywhere. Waterfalls had an aura of winter all around, puddles and streams on trails became icy, while lakes in the highlands had already started freezing. These conditions make outdoor adventures in Iceland challenging, but offers unique conditions and compositions. This is one of the multitude of falls showcasing its winter sheen.

Kvernufoss
Iceland

And the Curtains part

I distinctly remember where I was when I heard about the May 11 G4 geomagnetic storm that would go on to create auroral displays in nearly all the states in the US. It was a slow-moving storm, and that gave enough time to evaluate locations to catch the aurora. This G4 storm earlier this month came with much less warning and lead-time. This fast moving storm would impact earth in just 24 hrs after it was detected. Were I in the US at that time, I would have struggled to find the right location to shoot it, but I happened to be in Iceland at that time. And while October usually results in changing weather patterns, I happened to be just an hour away from locations with 360 views, fairly calm conditions and very little light pollution.

The intensity of the storm was such that, even with my eyes blinded by headlights, the deep red glow was visible as clear as day as the storm was starting to build up. I pulled over, anticipating a sub-storm that would blow up the sky. And it did. As the intensity of the storm peaked, beams of light stretched from the coronal center all the way to the peaks in the horizon. It was as though the curtains of the sky had parted, and brilliant multi-colored light hiding behind the jeweled night sky filtered from the heavens.

The storm would continue for many more hours of that long night, with periods of quiet interlude between sudden showers of light. Nearly a decade since my first aurora, I couldn't believe that I would get to witness such an incredible spectacle so many more times. It was a night I wouldn't forget for a long time.

Kalfafellsstadur
Iceland

Driving Around Iceland

View fullsize

The problem with driving around Iceland is that you’re basically confronted by a new soul-enriching, breath-taking, life-affirming natural sight every five goddamn minutes. It’s totally exhausting.

- Stephen Markley

Every turn, every mile, and every day brought out a new scenery to stare at, a new waterfall to wander to, a new mountain to be amazed by, a new glacier to gape at, a new terrain to traverse, and a new landscape to shoot. The long days of driving around this tiny island, while tiring, was anything but boring. It was a wonderous destination with jaw-dropping beauty, a magical place I would love to return to.

Ring road

South Iceland

Once upon a Glacier

Once upon a time, a glacier used to run this this massive valley, descending from the mighty Vatnajökull whose eruption brought the transatlantic flights to a standstill. Though this glacier had paled in comparison to its parent, it still had been a voluminous mass of ice, stretching a few miles long and a mile wide. Alas, now this glacier has all but receded to its ice-cap, leaving behind a gorgeous glacier-scoured valley, a meltwater lake and tiny slivers of water that wind their way down to the ocean.

Standing atop this vista overlooking this valley, I can't help but imagine what this amazing sight would have been.

Sakftafell National Park

Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon

View fullsize

It appeared as nothing more than a small road climbing up to a rolling uplands, a grass-covered green hilly terrain devoid of any trees, with a tiny creek meandering out from a small canyon. A quizzical look passed by my buddy's eye as I urged him to turn into that road that the road-sign helpfully indicated as Fjaðrárgljúfur, a name that would surely stump a spelling bee winner.

But as we got closer, the terrain became more dramatic. The creek still continued its slow course upstream, but on either sides, towering stone walls stood beside finger-like projections of earth. And as we climbed higher and higher, the geology became as twisted and gnarled as its confounding name. Finally, from its very end, I looked back at the twisted walls of the canyon, with green vegetation sticking to every possible slope, slowly mellowing away to the flatlands yonder; I kept wishing I had had time to explore this canyon from the river, a perspective that would have been rather unique. There's certainly more to this  place than meets the eye

Fjaðrárgljúfur
Iceland