Light of the Night - II

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It was hoping for another night with a clear sky. I was eager to see another light of the night.

My body was still recovering from a lack of sleep from the previous night in northern Iceland, while my mind recovering from witnessing one of the best displays of the Northern Lights. I had been held in a trance by that display, unable to move from the camera even as the mercury dropped below freezing. My camera died before I did.

The second night, I was out by a village in the remote reaches of Westfjords, and was hoping I would be able to get a similar display tonight. And after dinnertime, I bee-lined out to one of the vista-points I had scouted earlier, parked my car, and waited for the clouds to part.

And the sky did not disappoint. The dance of this light of the night was ethereal, a scintillating display of auroral glow that I would never forget. It was dimmer, but still brilliant.

Flateyri

Westfjords, Iceland

Light of the Night

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"As dark as the night sky": the fairly common phrase ran through my mind as the bright band of the Milky Way stretched from horizon to horizon. Thousands of dazzling specks of light illuminating a dark canvas, interrupted here and there by scintillating flashes of a meteor, the steady pulse of a transpacific flight and the long slow march of the communication satellites. The mercury continued to drop as night settled in deep in the heart of the Central Cascades of Washington, but I continued my obsession with the ethereal dark night sky.

The night sky is something we all take for granted. Only when you experience the light of the night and see the Milk Way traverse the sky, however, do you realize the importance of a wilderness where you can really feel that the earth is but a mere mote of dusk floating through the vastness of space. It is a treasure that helps you experience the cosmic perspective. And every few weeks, I yearn to return to such a wilderness.

Goat Rocks Wilderness

WA USA

The lights of the night

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The last embers of the colorful sunset were slowly fading away, with the warm colors slowly dissolving to the deep blue of twilight. A savory dinner of pasta and bread, a luxury in a remote location like this, was settling in my stomach, a reward for the long late-summer day of hiking and exploring the unique landscapes of the Ring Road in northern Iceland.

As I lay soaking in a hot-tub in this remote corner of Iceland, I was ready to call it a night, when suddenly, the faint arc of the aurora appeared but for a fleeting instance. After two days of intense displays albeit above cloudy skies, I had all but lost hope of seeing this spectacle, but what I had witnessed over the next few hours lay forever engraved in memory, an ephemeral occurrence etched into permanence.

The dance of the aurora is spectacular, and its irresistable attraction lies in the seeing the slow but continuous transformation of this unique energy into shapes unimaginable: snake-like swirls change to wormhole vortices, to long arcs stretching to the horizon, to streaks of color and light against a dark skyscape. This is one such exposure of the aurora set against the hostel I was spending the night at

Saeberg
Iceland

The Cap on Concepcion

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It was a long and weary day. Just 12 hours prior, I was scrambling on all fours up the slippery steep scree of the Concepcion Volcano, wondering if I could even make it down alive. But I did. And stayed up awake long enough to capture the night as it came alive under moonlight and starlight.

Even as my eyes were refusing to stay open after the tiring hike, I pursued with the objective of capturing the night sky. The cool breeze and the clear skies were encouraging, and the rise of the waning moon turned the night sky into day. Perhaps what captivated me most was the sombrero that formed atop the volcano, adding a unique dimension to the scene.

It certainly was a test of perseverence, doing hard work after getting tired of doing the hard work I already did. But it was worth it.

Ometepe
Nicaragua

Blue Hour in Colmar

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The aptly named Little Venice in Colmar, was full of surprising delights. Turning around one corner, I found a small garden replete with a period fountain adorned with a statue, crumbling walls covered in vine, and a timber-frame house standing gallantly. Around another street, and I found rows of beautiful historical houses and structures carefully nurtured, a testament to the city council. If those timber-frame houses could speak, they would narrate oodles of tales from its long storied history.

They might have been residences, shops and tanneries during their glory years, but now they have been converted to souvenir shops, cafes, and restaurants, serving the throngs of tourists exploring the heart of the Wine Route. As the sun sets and the light disappears, the tourist crowd dwindles, leaving behind fairly empty streets devoid of the energy and activity of the day. And while this may be forlorn, it is just perfect for photography, especially during the blue hour.

Colmar

Alsace, France

The Skies above Big Bend

It was pitch black when I got done. The last rays from the moon had disappeared a couple of hours ago. and all that remained was starlight. A million stars dazzled the sky with a density that I have hitherto  not seen. While the air was slightly hazy from the desert dust, there were no clouds to mar the sparkling carpet of innumerable burning suns. Constellations, where I could merely pinpoint the keystone stars, now seemed to be made up of dozens of astral bodies. Shooting stars dashed across this starscape lasting for a bright fleeting moment, while satellites made their slow march across this stellar background. But perhaps most disconcerting was the eerie silence of nothingness, where every insect buzzing and twig creaking sent shivers down my spine. I scurried away from this celestial vista as soon as I finished packing my gear.

Such was Big Bend National Park in Texas. I had set up my camera at a desolate vista point in the heart of the park. Claimed as having one of the darkest night skies in this part of the country, the park is a haven for astrophotographers, and I was excited to see what I could capture on that clear starry night. After setting up my camera to record in the last vestiges of moonlight, I promptly proceeded to catch a quick nap, and it was after I woke up that silence of the night got to me. Nevertheless, the shoot of the equatorial plane of stars resulted in this bright star-trail image.

Big Bend National Park
TX US

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Refuge in the mountains

Out in the middle of a green valley in the western Tien Shan mountains lies a stone refuge. At 3200m, this seemingly desolate refuge is miles away from the nearest village, with nothing but tall treeless mountains with grassy slopes all around. The setting is remarkably beautiful, but for what purpose was this built? Why does it have 31 rooms, with many hidden passageways? And why was it so far away from anything? Mysteries abound this stone refuge, the Tash Rabat Caravanserai.

I had heard about this place during my initial research into Kyrgyzstan. My interest was piqued by the fact that it was a caravanserai that was not built along any major caravan route. But being so far off from the main cities, I had put off visiting this attraction. Thankfully, not only did I get an opportunity to visit, I also got to spend a night by one of the yurts next door.

Despite the half-moon, the clear night sky, bereft of any haze thanks to being at 3200m, afforded a great opportunity to capture some star trains. I set up on a nearby hill, and with an entire retinue of herding animals to provide company: galloping horses, barking dogs, and grazing cattle wandered all over, but thankfully never knocked my tripod. 15 exposures and 90 minutes later, I ended up with this star trails image over Tash Rabat

Tash Rabat Caravanserai
Naryn Kyrgyzstan

The Two Towers

There is a place in the US that is called Monument Valley, enshrined in the minds of many as what the American West looks like. It may seen implausible, but until you get to that valley in the Four Corners Area of the lower 48, clustered with vast sandstone buttes towering towards the sky, you won't get to realize why.

I stood in the heart of Monument Valley one night, watching in awe at the night sky in utter darkness. In front of me, the bright band of the Milky Way rose, a tower light light marching towards eternal darkness, eclipsing the silhouettes of all other sandstone buttes. The sky was a glittering carpet, with far more stars visible than the average wilderness, thanks to the atmospherics of this isolated place. I watched satellites crawl on the canvas of stars, shooting stars scintillate for a fleeting instance, and the slow march of the stars around the Pole. I was lost in time and space.

Every time I look back at the photos, my memories flash back to that cool evening, tramping over rocks and avoiding cacti, and trying to catch that jewel-like night sky. This one was captured at ISO 3200, at F4 for 30s

Monument Valley Navajo Monument
AZ USA

Heading: North

It was a bright moonlit night high up in the mountains of the Olympic National Park. The silence of the still night was only broken by the sounds of hooves treading the ground as stealthy deer grazed in the grassy meadow all around me. But under the full moon, even the deer could not stay hidden for long. And I was keeping a close watch on them, for the last thing I wanted was one of them wandering into the tripod and knocking the camera that was shooting this image.

The bright moonlight had made it challenging to find a suitable composition for shooting the night sky. The horizon was bright, not from moonlight, but from the setting sun, while high above, all but the brightest stars laid hidden from both me and my camera. Wandering around, I finally spotted a grove of trees pointing up towards the Pole star; it was as though nature herself had stretched out her arms to point me to the north. And the near full moon had ensured that these still denizens of the forest would not stay invisible.

I shot a total of 17 exposures, each5 min long at F8, ISO 800 to capture this moonlit star-trails.

Olympic National Park
WA USA