They say never to visit the Grand Canyon in the peak of summer unless one had a deathwish. And yet, that was exactly what I had done. Lacking any travel experience in the desert southwest and foresight to temper my hubris, my foolish brain assumed that Grand Canyon would be perfectly ok to hike in June. It took a deathmarch down and back up the canyon to realize the foolishness and audacity of what I was attempting.
My first glimpse of the giant gaping hole was jaw-dropping. In front of me was a canyon larger than what I had imagined, gouged by a excavator of stellar proportions. It was only later I realized that this impressive geological spectacle was the the result of flowing water acting on a land that was rising slowly over millennia. My brain tried and failed at making sense of the immense number of sandwiched layers that formed the terra-firma over which I was standing.
Hiking down the canyon helped provide an even better sense of perspective, primarily because the slow slog back up gives you plenty of time to admire the layered terrain on which the trail was laid down on. It can be easy to get lost ensconced in the rich topography, but the stench of fresh mule dung fermenting in the hot sun will snap you back to real life, and you will discover newfound energy that will help you scurry past those unforgettable droppings.
On my return visit to the park, I carried with me those experiences, and that helped me time my hikes properly, including setting up at the right location for sunset. This is one such view from the rim of the Grand Canyon, looking down at the river still carving its way down the canyon.
Grand Canyon National Park
AZ USA
A National Park Journey - Crater Lake National Park
Crater Lake National Park was just a hop skip and jump from Redwood, relative to the overall distance we were driving. Having arrived at Crater lake with very little driving experience, I remember being afraid of even driving along the curvy rim road that winds around the massive crater. But my fear vanished as soon as I got the first sight of the massive crater.
For a big city kid, seeing a pristine lake as large as this, with a deep blue color quite unlike anything I had seen before, was a life-changing experience. I had never experienced anything of such scale, let alone a volcano whose crater had a 33-mile rim. That, coupled with the stark alpine scenery of the surrounding Cascades, made for an unforgettable first visit.
My second trip to this park was more than 16 years later in less than ideal weather conditions, but it was enough to spark the joy of being in this very unique National Park. This particular image, however, is one of my first attempts at a panorama from my first visit.
Crater Lake National Park
OR USA
A National Park Journey - Redwood National Park
The third park in my journey through the 59 (then) National Parks was the Redwood National Park. I had planned it as a short detour on my way to the fourth one (more about it on my next post), hoping to see the tall coastal redwoods that this region was so famous for. And while I did get to admire the grandeur of the misty forests with towering trees, it is hard to get a perspective of size of the Coastal Redwoods unlike the Giant Sequoias further inland. I remember bad weather and lack of planning marring further exploration of this park, and I had tabled this place in my memory for a future visit.
Despite being so close and accessible, I only had the opportunity to visit this amazing park once after that. I used the opportunity to admire the rugged and rocky coastline, and hike amidst the giant redwood forests, and feeling like an eternal dwarf in unspoilt nature. I wish I could go back and spend more time in this beautiful slice of nature that is often left out of the tourist maps, and explore the unexplored.
Here is my take of the rocky shore one foggy evening, where I exaggerated the color with the help of the Singh Ray Blue and Gold Polarizer.
Redwood National Park
CA USA
The Monuments
It was not my first rodeo at Monument valley. But I still got the chills looking at these towering buttes and mesas rising above the vast dry desert floor of the Colorado Plateau. And on this particular day, a transient sandstorm created a layer of haze around the shale skirts of the buttes and exaggerated the vast wild West atmosphere exuded by the Valley of the Rocks.
The park is still closed, and that prevented us from getting up close and personal with these monuments. But they still held their beauty from afar.
Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park
AZ USA
The Distant Rockies
One of the places I have certainly missed exploring over the last year has been the Canadian Rockies. Spread across the border between Alberta and British Columbia, two mountainous provinces of Canada, these rocky mountain ranges seem even more impressive than their cousins south of the border. Towering snow-capped peaks rise high above glaciated valleys, where a low treeline provides easy accessibility to stellar views. The expansive nature of its untouched wilderness more than makes up for the limited road access and short hiking season, and unexplored regions still await the determined outdoor hiker.
Spread across this extensive wilderness area are five spectacular National Parks: Banff, Jasper, Kootenay, Yoho and Waterton Lakes, along with countless provincial parks, each holding their own unique attraction. It is certainly daunting to try and cover these gems of the Canadian Parks system in one single trip, and I would recommend sticking to one or two parks each visit, unless you have an entire summer to travel around.
Here is one alpine scene from Spray Lakes Provincial Park near the town of Canmore in Alberta. Far less crowded than its neighbor Jasper National Park, it is just as beautiful and definitely worth a visit.
Spray Lakes Provincial Park
AB Canada
Pano over the Canyon
The dry desertscape of Utah seem a far cry from the vibrant rainforests of the Pacific Northwest, but present a landscape with a refreshing palette of colors. Vast swathes of the Colorado and Green River basin near Moab expose sandstone buried from the Jurassic period and rich in iron oxides, exhibiting this characteristic red color. And in the amber hues and slanted rays of sunrise and sunset, one can really experience the incredible and diverse features of this landscape, from towering mesas silhouetted in sunlight to tiered gorges that evolve from tiny gullies to a vast rocky canyon.
I tried to capture the essence of this landscape at a sunset vista from an overlook in Canyonland's Island in the Sky district. From this viewpoint, once can spy the fingers carved into the undulating sandstone by the seasonal tributaries of the Green River, and its confluence with the mighty Colorado further south. The west-facing walls catch the last light of the day, with deep shadows highlighting the stark differences in terrain. This part of Canyonlands is replete with plenty of these viewpoints, offering a glimpse into the diverse landscape and into the storeyed geological history of the North American continent.
Canyonlands National Park
UT USA
The Salton Sunrise
At 4 in the morning, I was still dazed in my hotel bed, wondering where I ought to be for sunrise at Joshua Tree National Park. As I gathered my senses, I started scouting the nearby locations, completely unaware of the conditions the sky would present. As I headed to the park, I kept peering into the horizon, hoping for a clue of where I ought to be to capture the magic of sunrise. In the end, I headed up to a viewpoint where I got a glimpse of the distant Salton Sea, one of the largest inland seas of the continent.
As the sky slowly transformed into the colors of dawn, the edges of the high clouds changed to a deep shade of pink, which reflected faintly on the vast surface of the sea. Surrounding this sea was the vast inland desert of California and Arizona, dominated by the distant blue mountains that were still in shadows early in the morning. I waited a bit, hoping for this vast landscape to light up, but before that could come to fruition, the sun promptly disappeared behind a large bank of clouds, dashing any hopes of a bright sunrise. Nevertheless, I tried to capture the vastness in scale of this unique vista of Joshua Tree National Park
Joshua Tree National Park
CA USA
Leave No Trace
As the snow melts away from the higher elevations of the Cascades, it leaves behind glaciated mountains enclosing valleys filled with glistening lakes and delicate alpine meadows. Views like these await visitors who summit the high peaks and ridges, where, above the treeline, the grand montane vistas open up. Such accessible areas are few and far in-between, and the high visitation to these areas during the short hiking season has a heavy toll on the delicate flora and fauna that survive in the higher elevations of the Cascades.
So when you are planning your next trip into the high alpine terrain of the Cascades, make sure you follow the seven principles of Leave No Trace:
Plan Ahead and Prepare
Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces, and concentrate use on existing trails and campsites
Dispose of waste properly, and pack it in, and pack it out. And if possible, leave the place cleaner than when you arrived there.
Leave what you find, or as they say: take only pictures and leave only footprints
Minimize campfire impacts - create fires only where permitted
Respect wildlife
Be considerate of other visitors.
Mt Baker Snoqualmie National Forest
WA USA
Silhouetted by Sunlight
The spines of a fraser fir stands along the ridgeline of one of Clingmans dome, silhouetted by the hazy morning light. Once a large grove of firs atop the dome, they were decimated by the balsam woolly beetle with efforts to repopulate ending in failure, and led to a drastic change in the montane ecosystem of the dome. Other vegetation still survives, with lower slopes dominated by deciduous trees that shed color every fall, and whose change of color attracts tourists from all over.
Driving up from the lower valleys where the colors had just started to change, to the upper reaches where most trees were reduced to their skeletons, one can experience a wide range of biodiversity exhibited by the Appalachians. The landscape around continues to change, primarily by the human pressure from population centers and industries on either side of the divide. But the higher you get, the less visible those changes are.
Great Smoky Mountains National Park
NC USA
Black and White Sands
A late afternoon dust-storm picks up fine sand from the dunes of White Sands National Park. This National Park, tucked within two mountain ranges of New Mexico, hosts the largest sand dunes made of gypsum sand that looks like snow, but flows like salt. Finer than regular sand, frequent windstorms easily pick up the pearl white dunes, erasing footprints of days past, leaving being sharp ripples that move every single day.
Due to the constantly shifting dunes, there are no fixed trails here, except for a series of markers for directional guidance. And even though they are small, it is easy to wander and get lost amidst the vast expanse of the dunes. But that shouldn't deter you from making a visit to this unique park in the desert southwest.
White Sands National Park
NM USA