Landscapes

Winter Blues

More often than not, the mountains of the Pacific Northwest are often mired in grey clouds under gloomy skies. But when the never-ending miserable weather does break, the mountains transform into a winter wonderland; acres of conifers laced with fresh snow stand guard like winter sentinels, smothered by the occasional fog drifting up the steep slopes of the Cascades, while high above, snow-capped peaks glint in the warm morning light under bluebird skies.

I trudged through fresh snowdrifts on one such recent outing under such conditions, the terrain transforming from featureless shade to fresh glinting snow in the early hours. My snowshoes sank a foot or more in heavenly powder, while the eerie silence of the forest made me forget that I was right across from one of the more popular ski areas of Washington. Despite being alone, I felt connected to the forest, the snow, the mountains, the wind and the silence. But by the time I returned however, that peace had given away to large groups of families and kids playing around in the winter wonderland.

Have you experienced that connection?

Mt Baker Snoqualmie National Forest
WA USA

The Wilds of Central Asia

Descending down on that bumpy dirt road into a vast green valley dominated by a single glistening deep blue lake was an experience I'll never forget even though it was almost 3 years ago. Lacking any trees or vegetation except grass and ground-hugging wildflowers, the seemingly endless green meadow ringed by snow-capped peaks in the horizon had no sense of scale.

Soon after we arrived, the clouds started to coalesce together, a foreboding sign of a thunderstorm. Soon thereafter, the thunderhead towered over the lake and the distant mountains even while sun shined brightly. Nevertheless, it was time to head back to the safety of the yurt.

Eventually, the thunderhead did disappear, but not before unleashing a torrential downpour on this fragile landscape in the heart of Kyrgyzstan.

Songkol
Kyrgyzstan

Heart of the Dunes

Walking into the heart of the dunes sounded appealing at the visitor center when I first entered one of the newest National Parks. But at the trailhead, with winds gusting upwards of 20 miles per hour, I had to rethink my decision, since all I could see in front of me was a wall of white blasting down my face.

I had visited White Sands National Park when it was still a National Monument and had hiked down the same trail to the heart of the sands. But back then, it was a calm balmy day, with a gentle breeze and mild temperatures. Quite unlike today.

I decided to go on, climbing over dune after endless white dunes, with nary a sign of life, all while getting sandblasted by pure white gypsum sand. I couldn't even turn back as my footprints were getting erased as fast as I created them. The only thing leading me own were the odd markers sticking above the ever shifting sand dunes.

I survived, but was coated in sand from head to toe. And my camera fared no better. But at least it continued to take photos.

White Sands National Park
NM USA

The Singing Sands

From the distance, it just appeared as a mass of white in a scorched desert environment. Plants seem to have shied away from this natural bowl between two mountain ranges where this mass lay. And as I got closer, the discernible shape of dunes emerged out of this mass of white.

White Sands was a surreal place, where the pure white gypsum sand place tricks with your mind: it looked like snow, behaved like sand, and flowed like salt, and yet, it had all the characteristics of a regular sand dune. And when the winds picked up and whipped into a frenzy, the dust storm of white sand was like nothing else.

I am excited to be returning back to this amazing place. And while it was a National Monument then, it has since been upgraded to a National Park status. Hopefully that brings more attention to this unique corner of New Mexico

White Sands National Park
NM USA

The Waterpocket Fold

There are not a lot of places on this planet where one can see the earth's surface folded up like a crumpled piece of paper. The Waterpocket fold that dominates the heart of Capitol Reef National Park in southern Utah is one of those other-worldly places where smooth red sandstone lies next to and above strata stretching back hundreds of millions of years.

And while I had only 36 hours to explore the nooks and crannies of this beautiful National Park, the sheer diversity of landscapes revealed by the Fremont river eroding away at the Waterpocket fold was mind-boggling. I hope I return some day to explore more of this unique corner of Utah.

Capitol Reef National Park
UT USA

Enchanting Hawaii

January tends to be one of the worst months in the Pacific Northwest. And the start of this year was no exception, with the region experiencing 30 days of continuous rain. Rivers became swollen, creeks water-logged, trails slushy, and the mood sour. It was a sign to spend time indoors, reconnect with friends and family, grab a few drinks, and go through my archives.

It was certainly the lousy weather that inspired me to look at the photos of Hawaii, where, in one single day, you could go from barren moonscapes to a sunny beach to lush rainforests to graceful sunset. I still miss the days I spent driving between through those diverse climes and eagerly looking forward to the next vista.

Maui
Hawaii

Sierra Monotones

The summer of 2015 was special for me in many ways; the foremost significance was doing one of my longest, and last, backpacks in the Sierra Nevada. I covered 55 miles over a week, hiking solo from one high alpine lake to another in a long circuit that traversed three mountain passes and cut through the famed Evolution and Dusy basin. It was an arduous trek, made even more challenging by the fact that I was all alone (most of the other hikers were PCT through hikers heading in the opposite direction.

Looking back at the photos I took made me realize what a stark contrast the rocky high-alpine climate of the Sierra Nevada was to the lush greenery of the Pacific Northwest. Rugged barren peaks with scant vegetation arose majestically from dark blue alpine lakes, with the moon a lonely dot in the heavily polarized sky. I hope these monotones capture the ethereal beauty of these craggy landscapes.

Kings Canyon National Park
CA USA

Getting High in Canada

May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds…

Edward Abbey

O Canada
Why is one part of your country nothing but magnificent snow-capped peaks, glacier carved valleys and glistening blue lakes?
Why do you make it so photogenic and expansive?
Why do you make it so easy to immerse oneself in nature?

A weeklong trip to the heart of the Canadian Rockies near Banff yielded these and many more questions as I worked my way from one scenic location to another. I wish I could go back and check out these rocky monoliths one more time.

Canadian Rockies

Heart of the Isles

I had never expected a country filled with beautiful scenery, with windswept mountains alternating with blissfulyl green hills, with rugged coastlines interspersed by petite towns, to be also so culturally rich and full of character and passion. It was a study in contrast going from the capital city of Dublin, where tradition and modernity wove a tangled web of commerce and industry, to the pastoral countryside replete with old castles, charming town centers, delightful bed-and-breakfasts, and the ever-ubiquitous Irish pubs with lively folk music.

It wasn't a country that wowed me with grand spectacle the likes of Iceland and Chile, but it was the hidden charm of the little things that I got to discover exploring around. I wish I could return there under better conditions. Meanwhile, here is a sampling from the heart of the isles

Ireland

The Paths We Follow

If the path be beautiful, let us not ask where it leads...

- Anatole France

For me, nothing excites me more than packing on a backpack and camera gear, and taking my first step on a path that leads into the mountains. Around every corner is a new surprise, a new sensation, and a new vista. And in the mountains of the French Alps, every turn brought about a new scenery, whether it be snow-capped peaks trailing into the horizon, the bountiful growth of colorful wildflowers or the sound of the cheerful cowbells of the local herd.

And on glorious mountain days like this, I cared not where the path took me, but where I currently was.

Tour du Mont Blanc
Europe