kumano kodo

Gateway to Nature

My trip to Japan was a juxtaposition of contrasts: of the modern bullet trains and ancient rituals, of concrete jungles and serene nature, of crowded onsens and peaceful villages. And yet, everyone of them was connected by an underlying thread of humanity in a cramped country, that, at times, didn't feel as cramped.

I experienced a part of this while hiking the sacred Kumano Kodo, an ancient pilgrimage route winding through the mountains of central Honshu. I passed through ancient Shinto shrines freshly decorated with incense and along forest paths that wound through bucolic villages and dense woods. The study in contrasts was very apparent in those three days that I hope to repeat in my future, if only to revisit those seeming contradictions once again.

Kii Peninsula

Japan

A Walk in the Woods

I took a walk in the woods and came out taller than the trees

- Henry David Thoreau

The earthy trail wound through the tall denizens of the misty woods. It was eerily silent, the only sound being the crunch of every step I took towards my destination. And yet, I never felt alone - I had the forest for company and I had so much to learn during my trek on the Kumano Kodo.

Kumano Kodo
Kii Peninsula, Japan

Alone in the Forest

Two years ago, I found myself in Japan in the heart of its Golden Week, a week-long extravaganza of cramped train stations and buses, standing-room-only shinkansens, crowded parks and jam-packed restaurants. And I wanted to get away from it all.

And I found it on the lush greenery and rustic scenery in the Kumano Kodo, a multi-day trek through the verdant forests in the heart of the Kii peninsula of Japan. The moss-laden path wound its way through leafy glens and quaint villages, with views of beautiful cloudscapes and misty valleys. And along the way, tiny shrines, artfully preserved, welcomed weary travelers to seek solace and zen after tiring climbs.

One such shrine was this, set amidst towering eucalyptus and pine trees rising into the foggy landscape. It was an unforgettable journey set in a memorable destination.

Kumano Kodo

Kii Peninsula, Japan

Temples of Japan

As I am going to spend the next few months recuperating from surgery, I figured it would be a good time to go through my archives of my travels.

I distinctly remember Nachi Taisha, a beautiful temple complex near the Nachi falls. I had seen photos of a famous red pagoda rising from the verdant greenery against the backdrop of Nachi falls, and as I was exploring the Kii peninsula, I found out where that photo had been taken - the pagoda by the Nachi Taisha. I made my through the multiple levels of the complex, until I came to this viewpoint. And despite it being the Golden week in Japan, when seemingly every Japanese traveled around the country, it was remarkably empty.

The vermillion orange of the four-tiered pagoda was striking against the mountainous landscape draped in contrasting greenery. The Nachi falls, a 400ft waterfall, looked positively tiny when juxtaposed next to this beautiful pagoda. I spent quite a bit of time exploring this relaxing temple complex, absorbing the sights and sounds of a traditional Japan.

Nachi Taisha

Nachikatsuura Japan

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Through the Green Jungle

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I got off the bus and stared at the trail-head - a wooded damp trail threading into the forests; a low layer of fog and rain mired my visibility further. A convenient multilingual sign gave a helpful description of the significance of the pilgrimage, but nothing about the 16km to cover today, nor the terrain I had to go through, or what I would experience. But perhaps that was best left unsaid, as it allowed me to fully be surprised by every single turn of the trail, but every foggy vista, by every pass I submitted, by every creek and cascade I passed by, and by every temple I stood in awe of.

This was the nature of the Kumano Kodo trek, one of the most sacred pilgrimages in the Kii Peninsula in the Honshu island of Japan. I had decided to come here to escape the crowds of the Golden Week, where every resident of Japan seemed to be traveling everywhere. And I was glad I did, for I found peace and solace in quite misty forests of the trek.

This shot was taken at one such place halfway through the first day, where the mist became part of the wonderful verdant greenery that made this trek ever so special.

Nakahechicho
Wakayama Japan